![]() ![]() This frees the weaver from vertical size constraint. When a weaver has reached the bottom of the available warp, the completed section can be rolled around the top beam, and additional lengths of warp threads can be unwound from the weights to continue. Frequently, extra warp thread is wound around the weights. Its defining characteristic is hanging weights (loom weights) which keep bundles of the warp threads taut. This loom was used in Ancient Greece, and spread north and west throughout Europe thereafter. The earliest evidence of warp-weighted looms comes from sites belonging to the Starčevo culture in modern Serbia and Hungary and from late Neolithic sites in Switzerland. The warp-weighted loom is a vertical loom that may have originated in the Neolithic period. Today, commercially produced backstrap loom kits often include a rigid heddle. Balanced weaves are also possible on the backstrap loom. Supplementary weft patterning and brocading is practiced in many regions. They produce such things as belts, ponchos, bags, hatbands and carrying cloths. Warp faced textiles, often decorated with intricate pick-up patterns woven in complementary and supplementary warp techniques are woven by indigenous peoples today around the world. Width is limited to how far the weaver can reach from side to side to pass the shuttle. Both simple and complex textiles can be woven on this loom. The other shed is usually opened by simply drawing the shed roll toward the weaver. To open the shed controlled by the string heddles, the weaver relaxes tension on the warps and raises the heddles. The weaver leans back and uses their body weight to tension the loom. On traditional looms, the two main sheds are operated by means of a shed roll over which one set of warps pass, and continuous string heddles which encase each of the warps in the other set. One bar is attached to a fixed object, and the other to the weaver usually by means of a strap around the back. ![]() Types of looms Back strap loomĪ simple loom which has its roots in ancient civilizations consists of two sticks or bars between which the warps are stretched. An automatic loom requires 0.125 hp to 0.5 hp to operate. This will brake the loom if the weft thread breaks. To become fully automatic, a loom needs a tertiary motion, the filling stop motion. At the same time, the warp yarns must be let off or released from the warp beams. There are two secondary motions, because with each weaving operation the newly constructed fabric must be wound on a cloth beam. Conventional shuttle looms can operate at speeds of about 150 to 160 picks per minute. After the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, the weaver uses the reed to press (or batten) each filling yarn against the fell. The portion of the fabric that has already been formed but not yet rolled up on the takeup roll is called the fell. Between the heddles and the takeup roll, the warp threads pass through another frame called the reed (which resembles a comb). As the shuttle moves back and forth across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling. ![]() A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to the other is known as a pick. The filling yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it moves across the loom. ![]() In a traditional shuttle loom, the filling yarn is wound onto a quill, which in turn is mounted in the shuttle. The shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through the shed. The filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created. Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a Jacquard Head. The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave. The yarns are passed through the eye holes of the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses. This is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles or healds, are attached. On the modern loom, simple and intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the heddle or heald frame, also known as a harness. Shedding is the raising of part of the warp yarn to form a shed (the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp yarns), through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted. In the loom, yarn processing includes shedding, picking, battening and taking-up operations. The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses or shafts (as few as two, four is common, sixteen not unheard of), shuttle, reed and takeup roll. ![]()
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